Sunday, May 17, 2009

Cordoba, Spain


Andalucia, the southern region of Spain, is known for more than flamenco. This region is extremely sunny and thus is abundant with olives, fruit (orange and lemon trees all over cities) and flowers (which gives The Netherlands a run for its money). The region also boasts the “best” beaches in Spain and is home to the infamous siesta (locals say that they need to rest as it is too hot to do anything in the afternoon).


I decided to visit Cordoba because I had heard that it is one of the biggest cities in Andalucia, but other than that, did not know what to expect. I’m so glad I visited as it is undoubtedly one of my favorite towns! Not only does it have Moorish-influenced architecture, it has more of a small-town feel than Sevilla. Furthermore, I visited at the best time of the year as the city was hosting the Festival de los Patios, a competition in which homes compete to decorate their balconies and patios (courtyards) with flowers, vases, fountains and statues. These Moorish-style courtyards all have gorgeous arches and tiles.


One side note about Spain. I would love to live in Spain as life there is one long festival! Not only are there constantly free cultural events (e.g., concerts in the squares, exhibitions in public buildings, photo exhibits in the parks), but also a very relaxed, easy way of life. I can’t believe many Spaniards start going to the bars at around noon!

Sevilla, Spain


Just like the pasteis de Belem and fado are a must in Portugal, experiencing tapas and flamenco is what one does in Spain. Having already tried tapas (and definitely not the last time I’ll be having it!), I decided to go to a local bar to watch some free flamenco.

The bar, La Carboneria, is very touristed, but that doesn’t mean its quality has been compromised. I watched two performances. The first consisted of a female dancer, a male singer/clapper and a male guitarist. The female dancer was garbed in a flowery dress. She stomped, clapped, twisted and waved to the rhythm of the music. It was amazing watching her enthusiasm and energy! The second performance I viewed consisted of only a male singer and a male guitarist. In my opinion, his signing wasn’t all that more uplifting than the Portuguese fado.

Evora, Portugal


I decided to spend a day visiting Evora, an ancient walled city (UNESCO world heritage) in the Alentejo region of Portugal. This is a very flat, farming area.

Apparently, Evora, like the rest of Europe, is very popular amongst Japanese tourists (though I didn’t see any). Besides the usual cathedrals, churches and squares, several places of interest in Evora are worth mentioning.

First, the bone chapel. Evora has a chapel made entirely of bones and skulls inside! There is an inscription inside the chapel that says “we are waiting for your bones”. How creepy!

Evora also has its share of Roman ruins, notably the Temple of Diana and an aqueduct. Perhaps I was most impressed by the buildings that now comprise the University of Evora. One of these buildings in a 16th century Jesuit college that has a beautiful courtyard with azulejo tiles. I can’t believe students get to study in an ambience of history!

Lisbon, Portugal




Portugal’s capital is a charming old city with gorgeous architecture. Along with red roofs, the most ubiquitous feature were the azulejo tiles. Parts of the city reminded me of San Francisco, with its hills and trams. Lisbon is one of those cities that I definitely will have to visit again for a longer period!

I came to Portugal mainly to try the Portuguese egg tart, something that I loved to eat back when I was in Hong Kong. These tarts, as I later learned are called pasteis de nata. However, the original one, with its secret recipe, is called the pasteis de Belem and can only be bought at one store in the Belem district of Lisbon. Not being a connoisseur of these pastries, the only features that I could discern was that the pasteis de Belem was flakier and less rich.

Another activity I partook in was going to a local restaurant (non-touristy) with some CouchSurfers and watching a performance of fado. This form of song is rather melancholic, with either a male or female singer accompanied by a guitar player and a Portuguese-guiter (round base) player. I watched a dozen male and female singers each express himself or herself. The most notable singer was a Japanese female singing in Portuguese. (Apparently, fado is big in Japan.)

Porto, Portugal




I arrived at Portugal’s second city wanting to try its specialty--Port wine. CouchSurfer Fernando kindly took me to a winery where I was given a tour and tried two types of Port, a dry white type and the common sweet red type.

It was also in Porto where I tasted delicious Portuguese food for the first time! I tried many types of fish, including dourada and bacalhau (codfish). Many of these fish are salted and grilled and served with the entire body on a platter, similar to the Chinese way of preparing some types of fish.

Around Madrid


Armed with my Eurail pass, I decided to explore the nearby towns in the Castilla y Leon and Castilla La Mancha regions surrounding Madrid. Both these regions consist of verdant fields and rolling hills. The towns I visited were Segovia, Avila and Toledo.


Segovia is a town with a myriad of architectural styles. The most obvious monument is the Roman aqueduct. Many of the buildings are built with bricks a Moorish-influenced style. The best example of this is the Alcazar or palace which has panoramic views of town and the countryside atop its tower.

Avila probably has the most intact Medieval city wall in the region (comparable to France’s Carcassonne). Like most European towns and cities, its cathedral is its most impressive structure.

Lastly, Toledo is probably the most touristed town outside of Madrid. It has a fairytale setting, with a castle and town perched on a hill with a bridge spanning over a moat. Inside the walled city, various types of architecture abound, with Roman and Moorish influences. The Spanish painter El Greco also has numerous works of art displayed around Toledo.

Madrid, Spain




This was my first time in Spain and I was extremely excited about diving into the culture right away. What impressed me the most about Madrid (and later, pretty much all European cities) is the amount of resources and attention devoted to culture, history and the arts. Everywhere, be it in the metro, parks, libraries, train stations, or public squares, there was something artistic. Free exhibits and performances abound. Moreover, many of these cultural events are free, along with Madrid’s great Prado Museum and Reina Sofia Museum on certain days. I wish there was a bit of this “culture” in San Diego and in most parts of the U.S.

I came to Spain not for the bullfights or flamenco, but for its tapas! Tapas, as I later learned, is any type of bar food. It can be one of three types: individual item that is paid, a plate of items that are free, or self-service in which you pay by the piece. I went to two tapas bars with CouchSurfers Inaki (Spain) and Arnaud (France) and had fun sampling the tortilla de patatas (Spanish omelette), patatas avioli and a sausage stuffed with rice.