Au Revoir, France!

I just thought of writing a “tribute” to each country at the end of each visit. Since my visits to Portugal and Spain were weeks ago, let me start with France, where I am leaving as I write.
I have been in France for 3.5 weeks, longer than I have been in any non-residence country. Furthermore, I have visited France more than any other country. I have also traveled to every region in France, minus the center and Corsica. What about France that keeps on drawing me back? I did not realize how much I missed this country until just after I arrived.

I am amazed at the cultural, culinary and geographic diversity in a country the size of Texas. Every region is unique in its own way. Haute Savoie is known for its mountains and lakes whereas Cote d’Azur is known for its beaches. Alsatian culture has a strong German influence whereas Brittany has its own distinct culture.

The food of course is in a class of its own. The gastronomy ranges from haute cuisine dishes such as escargots, boeuf Bourguignon and magret de Canard. The various fruit tarts and chocolate cakes are to die for! And I have come to love the “holy trinity” of French cuisine--bread, cheese and wine. I simply cannot live without them! From baguettes to croissants, chevre to Camembert and Bordeaux to Burgundy, these are some of the finest (and affordable) pleasures in life!

Another aspect of French life I have grown to enjoy is its culture. Someone mentioned to me that France has a culture of culture. Now I understand why. Every level of government--national, regional, departmental, city--has a cultural ministry/department. These institutions are funded by the taxpayers (which I would gladly pay if I could; it is better use of funds rather than for bombs). Thus, there is a huge emphasis on providing cultural events, both fee and free, to its residents. Every city/town I visited had flyers advertising festivals, concerts, theatre, cinema, expositions and dance. One simply cannot get bored in France!

I would also like to comment on what’s on the screen, notably French TV and cinema. I didn’t get a chance to watch much TV (one reason is that most of my hosts did not watch TV, which is great!). However, I can say that public TV broadcasts high-quality documentaries often. Furthermore, there exists a French/German channel, Arte, that showcases cultural happenings. French cinema, in my opinion, is also of a higher quality than Hollywood. The cinematography may be simple, but French films provide more food for thought in its portrayal of daily life.

I was also surprised at the love of reading that the French display. It appears that a substantial portion of the population enjoy reading books for fun (and it is not only the upper classes or college-educated folks). Just observe the number of book fairs and stores (almost all mom-and-pop) there are. This helps to create a very educated and aware population.

Thus, the combination of haute cuisine and haute culture has created a society where it is intriguing and fun to live. This is plenty of room for spontaneity and creativity in French society. Living in France is like being part of a beautiful tapestry. Look no further than the multi-hour, multi-course meals; the endless conversations at a café; tasting and shopping at an outdoor market; admiring the displays at a mom-and-pop florist; the aimless wandering down alleys in search of art; staring in awe at the neo-classical buildings; the sound of the beautiful language; the buttery smell of a croissant as one enters a boulangerie; the taste of Brie as it melts in one’s mouth; the sight of an artistic display of cakes at a patisserie; and of course, the unforgettable first bite into that fresh, crunchy baguette.

Lastly, let me talk about the French people. Yes, there are those rude Parisians who ignore you as a tourist and those who snarl at you when you ask them, parlez vous Anglais? However, I have found the French to be a very polite people in general. One ubiquitous example is saying bonjour and au revoir every time one enters or leaves a store or museum or institution. I have also been blessed with the kindness and generosity of my CouchSurfing hosts. They have taught me many things about France and have shared their culture with me. This trip would not have been possible without them (and I mean ALL of the CouchSurfers), so I thank all of you!

Thus, it is with sadness that I bid farewell to France. I am already feeling nostalgic, especially for the fresh baguettes, croissants and pains au chocolat. I will definitely be back in the future, only this time, hopefully with someone whom I can share my experiences with.

Lille, France

Lille, the northernmost major French city, is full of Flemish history and influence given its location. Highlights in the city include the old town with Flemish architecture (particularly the Bourse). Because of its proximity to Belgium, the region has some of the best frites (fries, with mayo of course!) and beer.

Toulouse, France

Toulouse is known as the “rose city” and it’s easy to see why. Many of its buildings are composed to red brick, which looks gorgeous when matched with blue shutters. I was also planning to head to the nearby mountain range, the Pyrenees to hike, but unfortunately, that didn’t work out. There’s always a next time!

Lyon, France

I originally was not going to visit Lyon. However, after learning that it is the ‘gastronomic capital of France’, I simply had to check it out!

For my first night, Cser Jean-Marie took me and another friend to a restaurant in Vieux Lyon (old Lyon). Apparently, Lyonnais cuisine is centered around pork. I ordered a three-course menu. The entrée (appetizer) consisted of pig brain, nose and foot, which I could not believe the French would eat! The brain tasted like jellyfish. This dish tasted good with a sauce similar to mayonnaise. For the plat (main dish), I ate blood sausage with apples. The sausage was cooked so well that is was very soft and tender. The apples were also soft and its slight sweetness complemented the saltiness of the sausage. Lastly, for dessert, I ate a praline tart, which was rich but satisfying!

For my second night, Jean-Marie cooked for me and his friend. Since I had mentioned the previous night that I have never eaten rabbit before, Jean-Marie decided to cook a traditional rabbit dish. The rabbit was tender, having been cooked in white wine for 45 minutes. Also in the rabbit dish were potatoes and mushrooms. For dessert, Jean-Marie made a banana cake; the recipe was from Madagascar. The cake was filling and not too sweet (which I believe constitutes excellent dessert).

Lyon is also famous for silk makers and traboules. I visited several of the latter, which are passages that lead into a courtyard and out into another street. Many of these courtyards and buildings contained Renaissance-era helical and rectangular staircases.

One last highlight was the visit to the Basilica de Fourviere, from where one can see the Saone River and Presqu’ile (center of Lyon). Furthermore, the basilica is quite ornate within, with columns containing statues of hens and angels and Medieval mosaics on the walls.

Annecy, France

My next stop in France was to another eastern area, the department of Haute Savoie. This place borders Switzerland; thus, the scenery and food are quite similar. Haute Savoie is a land filled with Alpine mountains and lakes, world-class ski resorts and delicious cheese (such as Raclette and fondue cheeses). I decided to spend my exploratory 1.5 days in Annecy, a town adjacent to a lake that bears its name.

Annecy, as you probably could have guessed, is a charming town. The old town contains buildings with pastel colors (yellow, red, orange) with passages (pedestrian tunnels) dug underneath them. There is also a small river that flows through town, which along with its bridges gives Annecy another angle of beauty.

I spent a considerable amount of time walking and relaxing along Lake Annecy. This lake contains crystal-clear, blue-green water, even during an overcast day. It is a glacial lake, similar to those found in the Canadian Rockies and in Patagonia. To describe how beautiful Lake Annecy is, let’s just say I thought I woke up in heaven even when I was lugging my heavy backpack.

Along the lake, one can participate in a multitude of activities: windsurfing, kayaking, paddle boating, sailing, etc. The adjacent mountains also provide plenty of hiking. I can only imagine how picturesque this place would look in the winter, with snow-capped Alpine peaks all around.

One intriguing event that occurred in Annecy while I was there was the Animation Film Festival. This again illustrates the commitment that the French government and public have towards culture. This festival showcased films from around the world at multiple venues, including an outdoor lawn overlooking the lake.

Burgundy, France

Burgundy is one of France’s premier wine regions, producing fine wines using Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Chablis. I came to experience the food and wine of this heartland in France.

I stayed with CouchSurfers Raph and Christoph in the town of Beaune and in many ways, their hospitality and accommodation made me feel like I was in a B&B. I got the wonderful opportunity to stay in their “zen room”, beautifully decorated with wooden furniture and artifacts.

Raph drove me around the vineyards of Beaune in which we had a birds-eye view of the towns, hills and vines of the region. The place is as beautiful as heaven. We also walked around the town of Beaune, which has Medieval stone and shutter architecture very similar to Sarlat.

One of the highlights was visiting an old hospital called the Hospices de Beaune. This complex has a courtyard with ornate and colorful tile architecture. Furthermore, it has a Hall of the Poor with beds lined up alongside the walls.

Another highlight was tasting the gastronomy of the region. I ordered a menu de jour and savored escargots (snails), boeuf Bourguignon (tender beef cooked in wine) and an apricot tart. And of course, this meal was accompanied by fine Burgundy red wine.

Sarlat, France

Excuse the cliché, but Sarlat is a rare diamond. I remember reading Michael Crichton’s Timeline, which was set in France’s Dordogne Valley. I had read about Medieval castles perched on hills overlooking the Dordogne River and was eager to check out this part of France. Sarlat is the area’s largest town.

I spent the afternoon on a relaxing walk throughout the Medieval center of the town. The cathedral, unlike most of the ones I have seen, is not Gothic. Instead, it was built from tan stone with a gray turret. The other buildings in Sarlat were mostly built with tan stones and brown or gray roofs. The shutters, which range in color, was my favorite part.

I also got a chance to visit the interior of some of these Medieval buildings. This is because many of them have become art galleries. Thus, I got to enjoy contemporary art while also admiring architecture. The most intriguing aspect of these buildings was the spiral staircase.

I was quite disappointed to find out that Sarlat is actually not by the Dordogne River and that one needed a car to fully explore the chateau, caves and ruins in the area. However, with most of the places I have visited, there is always a next time. The first visit is merely to sample the “icing on the cake”.

Bordeaux, France

I decided to visit Bordeaux as a base to explore the surrounding wine region, which reportedly produces some of the best vin in the world. I didn’t think much of the city before visiting, but once again, I have found a tourist jewel.

Besides its typical French classical architecture, Bordeaux is blessed with a riverbank that was crowded on this hot, spring day. My highlight of the day was attending an arts festival. The festival consisted of exhibitions (art, photography), concerts and improvisational theater. My favorite was the improv as the teens who performed it were quite amusing (thanks to Mathieu for the translation!).

What is amazing about Bordeaux (and every European city/town I have visited so far) is the multitude of cultural events available to the public. There is some movie, exhibit, concert or fair going on everyday and Bordeaux isn’t even a large city!